fix: inspector font/formatting, FreeType-only backend on Apple

Resolves the parity items of docs/rewrite/notes/review-rv17-codex.md
(final-Z20.md):
- FreeType-only font backend is also available on Apple targets
  (discovery-free, embedded emoji fonts); ghostty_surface_quicklook_font
  returns null for every backend except plain CoreText like Zig.
- The +list-fonts test keys off the font crate's selected backend
  (HAS_DISCOVERY), correct under feature unification and on Apple.
- Inspector font: 32 px rasterized with FreeType (dear-imgui freetype)
  like Ghostty; a new `visual-parity.sh inspector` scenario shows 0.031%
  differing pixels (hover highlight) vs the original on Linux. Windows,
  Apple and wasm keep stb_truetype at 32 px (registered as a deliberate
  deviation).
- Inspector DCS/APC descriptions follow Zig 0.15.2's formatting
  (checked by running Zig), incl. the terminal.Parser.Action prefix.
- The ImGui demo window appears only in dev-profile builds, mirroring
  Zig's .Debug-only gate.

Test Plan:
- cargo test --workspace --no-fail-fast (3582 passed)
- just check-macos (both, also with --features font-backend-freetype)
- scripts/visual-parity.sh inspector

crates/ghostty-apprt-gtk/src/class/inspector_widget.rs

@@ -97,7 +97,7 @@ mod imp {
             let weak = obj.downgrade();
             obj.upcast_ref::<ImguiWidget>().set_hooks(
                 // Called to do initial setup of the UI.
-                Box::new(ghostty_inspector::setup),
+                Box::new(|ctx, _scale| ghostty_inspector::setup(ctx)),
                 // Called for every frame to draw the UI.
                 Box::new(move |ui| {
                     let Some(this) = weak.upgrade() else {